For those expecting details of gay encounters, best to skip this. It is purely an account of a 13-day trip I made to Iran earlier this month, although as I mention I did find some of the Iranian boys very cute. Hopefully some may find it interesting. Perhaps one or two readers may even consider making a similar trip, possibly on a stopover from Europe to Thailand. That's what I did, although I was traveling in the other direction. I have divided the Notes into four posts. There was just so much to see and absorb.
At the end of last year, I had booked a mileage ticket to the U.K. on Qatar Airways with stop-over in Doha. Wondering where else I might travel, I was having dinner in Bangkok with some friends from Shanghai when they suggested I must consider Iran. They had been twice and loved both visits. Since I love Islamic architecture and wanted to know more of the history of that part of the Middle East, I booked a tour with their recommended Iranian travel agency.
Whilst it is easy for Thais and many other nationalities to enter Iran with a visa on arrival, British, Canadian and American nationals have no such luck. We have to fill out a very detailed application form months ahead. This is then vetted by the Foreign Ministry in Tehran, a process that in my case took about 10 weeks. A visa can then be issued which here in Bangkok cost just over Bt. 8,000 - high by any standards but in the end worth every Baht.
I started the trip with 3 days in Qatar. Not much to see here apart from some very impressive modern architecture -
![Image](https://image.ibb.co/kONQi6/Doha_mr.jpg)
- and a stunning Museum of Islamic Art, the building designed by I. M. Pei. The exhibits take in the entire Islamic world and show the influences from many countries, including China.There is also a fascinating Museum outlining the history of slavery in the Gulf, something I had thought little about, although I should have realized that when it eventually came to the discovery of oil, the Anglo Iranian Oil Company would pay its labourers slave wages.
Three days later I am up early at 5:15 to repack, grab a cup of coffee and then off to Doha’s sparkling airport for the 8:00 am flight to Tehran. Biz class check in is like checking in to a 5-star hotel. Porters to take my bags and smiles and welcomes all round. QR really does put so many airlines to shame. Being a Middle Eastern hub, the airport is heaving with tired bodies just arrived from goodness knows where and rushing to find connections to goodness knows where else.
As my 737 crosses the Gulf, the coast of Iran below seems just like mountainous white dust with hints of light brown. The further we fly north over the country I wonder who on earth can live in this barren land. Eventually small squares of green and brown appear, indications of civilization, but the clusters are few and far between. This barrenness continues for around 45 minutes until the land changes but only to flat desert and further signs of life in the form of towns start to appear. Yet this still looks pretty uninhabitable terrain. I wonder: where does the water come from? This could be the moon only it's a sandy white rather than a chalky gray.
Soon I wonder again: I have deleted all evidence of gay photos from my iPad and iPhone, but have forgotten to delete the apps. Too late now as we are at the gate. I’ve heard that Customs is pretty relaxed here now. I live in hope!
Immigration is a breeze, fast and no questions like ”Have you been to Israel?” A positive answer would have seen me immediately back on the return flight. Customs also ask no questions and bags str merely x-rayed - I imagine to check for bottles of booze which are one of the few things totally verboten. 2 minutes and I am through, meet my guide/driver and start my trip. Unbelievably simple! Re my water question, he tells me that Tehran gets loads of water from the mountains immediately to the north of the city. Iran also has a huge water table underground, in parts 100 meters deep. You live and learn. En route into the city, we visit the Mosque where Ayatollah Khomeini is buried. An impressive start, even though it remains unfinished 28 years after his death. I am surprised at the colour green but discover later that this is common in Shi’ite shrines. Apparently it represents Paradise! I hope Khomeini is enjoying his virgins!
![Image](https://image.ibb.co/gSxrO6/Khomeni_Mosque1_mr.jpg)
![Image](https://image.ibb.co/h4z5i6/Khomeni_Mosque2_mr.jpg)
In the afternoon, we visit a few parts of the city including the famous Azadi Tower built on the instructions of the Shah’s third wife. Although I'd seen photos, the real thing is especially impressive in the afternoon sun.
![Image](https://image.ibb.co/bDD9Am/Azadi_Tower1mr.jpg)
![Image](https://image.ibb.co/mrEhVm/Azadi_Tower2mr.jpg)
One thing I had not been told was that Tehran virtually closes down today and tomorrow for the humungous Festival of Ashura, the holiest in the Shia calendar. The main Festival commemorates the day on which in 680 AD Hussein, the grandson of the Prophet Muhammad, was martyred at Karbala in Iraq. Despite restaurants and cafes being closed, everywhere it seems everyone is giving out free meals, coffees, teas and soft drinks to everyone else, including tourists.
Waiting for a Meal
![Image](https://image.ibb.co/ihQT36/Waiting_for_Food_mr.jpg)
![Image](https://image.ibb.co/bzsVGR/Welcome_Drinks_mr.jpg)
Coffeed-out, more than one shop owner seems genuinely disappointed that I will not accept their offering. The Festival includes all manner of street parades, with drumming, chanting, wrestling displays and prayers along with groups indulging in a fair bit of self-flagellation! Black is everywhere and will stay that way for a week.
One benefit of the Festival is that traffic in this city of 15 million is a vast improvement from its normal dreadful crawl. In addition to a few sights like a mosque beautifully decorated in glass mosaics just off the bazaar and the still closed US Embassy of “Argo” fame with anti-US murals on its exterior walls -
![Image](https://image.ibb.co/jDKAGR/Tehran_Mosque_mr1.jpg)
![Image](https://image.ibb.co/kidRqm/Tehran_Mosque_mr2.jpg)
![Image](https://image.ibb.co/bH9Gqm/Tehran_Mosque_mr3.jpg)
![Image](https://image.ibb.co/cGZ5i6/Tehran_Mosque_mr4.jpg)
![Image](https://image.ibb.co/gBDFi6/Tehran_Embassry_mr.jpg)
- we visit a couple of parks with excellent views. Lots of young Iranian men are playfully holding hands and happy to smile at this aging adventurer! While virtually all Arabs are a turn-off for me, some of these Iranian boys are really very attractive - but of course totally out of bounds. And yet: again I wonder. With such a large population, despite the restrictions of the hardline religion, there surely must be quite a number of practicing gay guys here. I learn more later.
By my third day, Tehran is back to normal and we pack the main sightseeing into a busy schedule that includes the impressive frontage in the National Library buildings. A feature almost unique to Persian architecture is the muqarnas, a decorative honeycomb-like structure at the top of most entrance arches. These are found in almost all mosques from the 10th century onwards, but they are also seen in palaces and the homes of rich families.
![Image](https://image.ibb.co/mkGMqm/Tehran_University_Entrance_mr.jpg)
We also visit the Gorefar Palace with its various ornamented mirrored rooms -
![Image](https://image.ibb.co/jvZMO6/Gorefar_Palace_mr1.jpg)
![Image](https://image.ibb.co/ei9zAm/Gorefar_Palace_mr2.jpg)
![Image](https://image.ibb.co/c6weAm/Gorefar_Palace_mr3.jpg)
- and then finally to the Jewellery Museum. This utterly stunning and gorgeous collection is housed in a bank vault open only for 2 hours 3 days a week. Many go bananas at the sight of the second largest uncut diamond in the world. Not me, though. It looks just like a piece of glass! But the fabulously encrusted throne, the various headdresses, the jewel-encrusted scabbards and hundreds of other pieces here are quite breathtaking. Not surprisingly, this small Museum is Tehran’s most popular tourist spot. Sadly security to get in is as strict as at airports and no cameras are allowed - not even mobile phones.
These few gems (sic) aside, I can’t be very enthusiastic about Tehran. It is so spread out and I did not find enough to justify more than a day and a half. So I am more than ready for my 6:20 pm flight down south to Shiraz.
A footnote. My guide in Tehran had spent more than 20 years living in countries as far apart as Japan, Canada and Germany. He is pretty worldly wise. At one point as we drive through some of the wealthier northern suburbs, we discuss the 1979 Revolution and the corruption of the Shah’s regime. My assumption is that corruption is now much reduced. “Reduced? It's now much worse,” he exclaims! “Look at all these houses and apartments. The smallest at about 80 sq. meters costs a minimum of US$500,000. Most are several times larger. Who do you think owns them?” He answers his own question. “Ministers, civil servants, the army, families of rich individuals. Everyone able to squeeze cash out of deals.” He then surprises me. “Corruption is everywhere now.” He even alleges that the Supreme Leader pockets US$13 million EVERY DAY!
Is this actually true? I guess I will never know. He also tells of the authorities’ deep-rooted fear of another Revolution. “The young people want more freedom. They are faithful Muslims but they are fed up with all the restrictions. Another clash like that in 2009 will happen, probably sooner than later.”