Laos - some less travelled parts

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Rogie
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Laos - some less travelled parts

Post by Rogie »

Trongpai recently posted this on the main Forum, in the There's more to Thailand than Pattaya thread:
On my future travel plans I have had the Lao town of Pakse on my mind. It's right across the Mekong from Ubon. I've read that there's a direct bus from the Ubon bus station that can take you there. I think you have to have a Lao visa first. I've not worked out the deatails yet. Anyone been there?
I posted a long article on another board soon after my visit to Laos in November2009. I've copied the relevant parts here. It's part my own experience and part what I'd like to do in the future as regards seeing more of what Laos has to offer, so hopefully it will enthuse others as well. Apologies that a large chunk is just quoting from travel sites or magazines (I cannot remember what my sources were).

During my recent trip to Thailand I arrived at Suvarnabhumi airport having booked a 50day stay, knowing the 30day entry stamp would need topping up at some stage. (NB. You are not supposed to do that, you need to be able to show a ticket out of the country within the 30 day limit, don't do what I did!). I thought I would extend my permitted stay in Thailand by visiting Laos or Cambodia. In the end I decided on Laos.

I had been to Laos twice before, the last occasion being about 5 years ago. Previously I had been to Vientiane, the capital, and then headed north. Both previous trips had taken me to Luang Prabang, via Van Vieng, then from there the 2 day journey by boat down the Mekong river, arriving back into northern Thailand. On this occasion I decided to head south. This would enable me to pass back into Thailand easily, and had the advantage that transport from there to Surin, my destination, was good. My companion was my then Thai bf.

The Lao currency is the kip. There are about 8,500 kip to the US$ and 250 kip to the baht. All three currencies are in common usage, and there are ATM's in Vientiane that dispense kip using your bank's debit/credit cards such as Visa (but apparently there are none outside the capital!). The smallest note in circulation is 500 kip, so that's about 2 baht. The largest note is 50,000 kip, equivalent to 200 baht. There are no coins.

________________________________________________________________________________________________

I've omitted my time in the capital Vientiane as most people visiting Laos are familiar with it.
__________________________________________________________________________________________________

Pakse

We reached Pakse early in the morning, soon after 6 am, and by the time we'd got a motorised rickshaw into town and our hotel had cleared a free room it was gone 8.30am. Rooms at the Pakse Hotel were US$38 (breakfast included) for one with a window, less for one with only an internal one. We went for one with a window! I don't think there's very much to see or do in Pakse, it seems to be the sort of place you go to en route to somewhere else. That somewhere else for us was back to Thailand, but if I went again I would budget maybe a week to visit all the places easily accessible from Pakse. The French manager of the hotel was a mine of information - alas, due to time constraints I was unable to explore the area.

So, here is a little taster of what to expect, hopefully to tempt me back.

With a population of 70,000 people, Pakse is the capital of Champasak province and the main gateway in Southern Laos, and gives access to the Boloven plateau to the east and to the Si Phan Don region to the south. Since the construction of a bridge over the Mekong (built with Japanese aid), which improves the traffic flow to Ubon Ratchathani in neighbouring Thailand, Pakse has become the commercial centre of southern Laos

The Champasak province is one of the most visited areas in southern Laos, with a number of attractions ranging from the Khmer sites of Wat Phu and Um Muang, the Bolaven plateau, a highland area with plantations, waterfalls and lots of scenery and the 4000 islands region to the south.

Champasak lies on the western bank of the Mekong river, while the main route to the south (route 13) is on the eastern side. As of now there was no bridge yet connecting Champasak with route 13, and the only way to get to Champasak is by ferry, but I was told a bridge is under construction.

In the extreme south of Laos the Mekong river breaks down into a myriad of arms and channels, which surround countless islands and islets. This region is called "Si Phan Don", which in Lao means "4000 islands". In the area there is a small population of Irrawaddy (river) dolphins. The entire area is very scenic and attracts a large number of tourists, but navigation by ships becomes impossible, especially because the river passes through the Khon Phapheng waterfalls. This is why the French built a railway to bypass this region for the transportation of goods. The major islands, the ones with the best tourist infrastructure and which attract most of the tourists, are Don Khong (the largest and most developed) and the Don Khon and Don Det islands further to the south, which are less developed.

I had hoped to take a day excursion into the Boloven plateau, but it didn't work out. The area boasts tea plantations, coffee producers, several waterfalls, ethnic villages and markets, and, I would imagine as the plateau rises to over 1,500 metres above sea level, many fine views.

Enough of that, back to what actually happened.

Two buses a day leave from the bus station in Pakse for Ubon Ratchathani. Those wishing to travel onto Bangkok can buy a through ticket in Pakse and change buses in Ubon. The bus stops at the Lao border where you get your exit visa then walk across to the Thai immigration in Chong Mek where you receive a 15 day entry visa. From there the bus is waiting to take you on to Ubon. We decided to stay in Ubon that evening, finally catching the bus to Surin the next morning.


To answer Trongpai's query re Lao visa, I would hope, and that's just an educated guess, that you could get it at the border post, the one referred to above.
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Re: Laos - some less travelled parts

Post by Trongpai »

Thanks, I don't have a date or firm plans yet but your post was very useful, I'll copy and file it away for reference. I was thinking of going from Ubon to Lao rather than the other way.

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree/t ... ID=1817838

This tells me I can get a visa with US$ at the border. I undertand the bus leaves at 9:30, so it would not be a bad idea to get to Ubon the day before, spend one night near the bus station and head out for Lao in the AM.

You description of the Boloven plateau has really piqued my interest.
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Re: Laos - some less travelled parts

Post by ceejay »

I've entered Laos from Thailand via the Chong Mek/Vangtao crossing point. This was a couple of years ago, so things may have changed, but this is what I wrote on another board then:
I entered through Chong Mek. You fill in the form and pass it, your passport and the visa fee (US$35 for me - apparently it can change with exchange rates) plus one passport size photo into a window at the side, go round to the front, and it comes out another window at the front, with the visa inside. I also needed an extra $2 - $1 for each official involved as overtime, because it was after mid-day Saturday (same applies all day Sunday). That's not a scam - it's the rules. Have the right money in US$ - you can use THB but the exchange rate is terrible - you have the choice between paying US$1 and THB 50!
Something to look out for with the visa. I was asked how long I was staying for and answered 11 days. They issued the visa for that exact number of days - but they got it one short! I was expecting to have to pay $10 for a one-day overstay when I left, but immigration in Luamg Prabang just stamped my passport and let me through. I'll ask for a couple of days more than I expect to need next time.
I have read conflicting advice on the length available on visa arrival - some say 15 days. some say 30. I'd check that if you are going for more than 2 weeks.
Rather than stay in Pakse, I spent a night at the Tad Fane resort which is on the edge of the Bolavan Plateau. It's a pretty good place by Lao standards, and you have the pleasure of eating breakfast in a restaurant overlooking Tad Fane falls. The scenery there, and in most of Laos, is stunning - after a diversion South to the 4000 islands, I headed North with a stop in Khammuan province to visit the Konghlor cave, then on to Phonsavan and finally Luang Prabang. The journey is a tourist attraction in its own right - the mountains are amongst the most beautiful places on earth. Visit them while you can, before the loggers strip them all.
Jun

Re: Laos - some less travelled parts

Post by Jun »

Rogie wrote:During my recent trip to Thailand I arrived at Suvarnabhumi airport having booked a 50day stay, knowing the 30day entry stamp would need topping up at some stage. (NB. You are not supposed to do that, you need to be able to show a ticket out of the country within the 30 day limit, don't do what I did!). I thought I would extend my permitted stay in Thailand by visiting Laos or Cambodia. In the end I decided on Laos.
Thanks for the report. Good to see people travelling around the region.
30 days, plus the 14~15 days for re-entering Thailand by land adds up to about 45 days. How do you get to 50 days?
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Re: Laos - some less travelled parts

Post by Rogie »

Jun wrote: 30 days, plus the 14~15 days for re-entering Thailand by land adds up to about 45 days. How do you get to 50 days?
Good question Jun, but you are forgetting something!

30 d in Thailand + 8 d in Laos + 15 d re-entry stamp at the border = 53 days
Jun

Re: Laos - some less travelled parts

Post by Jun »

Rogie wrote:30 d in Thailand + 8 d in Laos + 15 d re-entry stamp at the border = 53 days
Obvious really. Proof that adding up is much easier without alcohol in the system :oops: .
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Re: Laos - some less travelled parts

Post by Rogie »

Jun wrote:Obvious really. Proof that adding up is much easier without alcohol in the system :oops: .
Don't feel too bad Jun, I'd already dug my 2009 diary out of cold storage and was rummaging through it thinking maybe I really had made a mistake when it dawned on me, so in fact it's degree of obvious-ness isn't always that obvious!
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Re: Laos - some less travelled parts

Post by pong »

Rogie wrote:
Jun wrote: 30 days, plus the 14~15 days for re-entering Thailand by land adds up to about 45 days. How do you get to 50 days?
Good question Jun, but you are forgetting something!

30 d in Thailand + 8 d in Laos + 15 d re-entry stamp at the border = 53 days
NO-IN correct as last day in TH+also 1st day in TH-back etc. So it adds up to 51. Maybe the 51 was 30 mins at airport? Flight at 0.25 or so?
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Re: Laos - some less travelled parts

Post by pong »

UPdates;
LAK=kip has smaller notes, even 20 or 50-but you wont see them. The highest note is now 100k=about 400 THB.
There are now 4 thorugh buses Ubon-Pakse. Times/info on this site: thaitransit.blogspot.com
New bridges have opened since at Mukdaharn/Savannakhet and at Nakorn Phanom. Youll always need to use a bus to cross there. the train now extends 2-3 kms into laos from Nongh Khai-see seat61.com. Only for diehard rtainbuffs.
For many infos on buses in Laos: hobomaps.com, but its mainly centered on North-Laos.
ALL common borderposts TH-LA have visum on arrival (though the minor ones may not be very used to it and anyway anything in LA runs laaaaazy) and the price is always best if paid in US$ and varies with YOUR nationality-even different for USers and Canucks. Mostly 30-40US$ for most. You also need 1 foto. There is at all posts an OVERtime supplmt of 1-2 US$ out of normal short Lao office hours. Can pay THB-but youll loose. (like 1200 or even 1500 THB for 30US)
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Re: Laos - some less travelled parts

Post by christianpfc »

pong wrote:ALL common borderposts TH-LA have visum on arrival (though the minor ones may not be very used to it and anyway anything in LA runs laaaaazy) and the price is always best if paid in US$ and varies with YOUR nationality-even different for USers and Canucks. Mostly 30-40US$ for most. You also need 1 foto. There is at all posts an OVERtime supplmt of 1-2 US$ out of normal short Lao office hours. Can pay THB-but youll loose. (like 1200 or even 1500 THB for 30US)
When I went to Laos (via Nongh Khai, January 2011), the fee for visa was quoted only in USD. By common sense, it should be possible to pay in THB or Kip, but I didn't want to be wait half an hour in the queue to be told that only USD are accepted (I don't know if that is the case, but from experience I know that my common sense doesn't work in Thailand). So I changed THB to USD (at an unfavorable rate, but if you are from US it's no problem for you).

I have to say again that the processing of the visas was very unprofessional. When they were done, they openened a window and called out the name, people close to the window than handed the passports to those further away, who raised their arms when they heard their name.

Pong, how do you know all this information you post? Is knowing all this stuff related to your work or do you have nothing else to do or is it a hobby of yours?
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