Report from Laos

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christianpfc
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Report from Laos

Post by christianpfc »

Warning: this report contains sexually explicit scenes and scenes of drug abuse. If you don't like, stop reading.

THB = Thai Baht, Kip = Laos Kip, kK = kilo Kip (1000 Kip, like kilometer or kilogramm). Exchange rates: 1EUR = 41.5THB, 1THB=260Kip, or easier if you use Euro: 1EUR ~ 11kK. VT Vientiane, VV Vang Vieng, LP Luang Prabang. (?) means that I don't remember exactly or my notes are inconclusive. There might be some further inaccuracies or omissions, but the dimensions are correct.

End of December 2010: I am sitting in an internet cafe and am online on gayromeo. I get a message from J, we start to chat and discover that our internet cafes are a few hundred meters away (in Soi Sri Bum Pen). As I have no plans for the afternoon, we exchange phone numbers and meet soon later. We meet, he is not really my type. J is from Vientiane and stays in Bkk for holiday, close to where I live. He invites me to his room in the Moonhouse (small world: weeks before I went with a Thai boy into the adjacent room, and weeks later a friend of mine stays in the very same room). The things take their course, we both come (handjob). He invites me to visit him in Vientiane, I can stay in his house, where he lives alone.

On another encounter at the Malaysia hotel, I get an invitation to Luang Prabang from a Lao boy T who lives there and is in Bangkok for holiday. So I decide to go to Lao for a visa run (my first, see a post from me in January).

End of January 2011: In Soi Twilight, I meet two Englishmen (boyfriends), who want to go to Laos by train via Nong Khai and have experience with visa for Laos and Thailand, so I decide to join them.

26.01.2010 Wednesday We take taxi to Hua Lamphong and board the overnight train (2nd class bed 688THB) at 20:00. In the restaurant car, there are only white people, eating, drinking, even smoking (with open windows), and they play music from the 60s and 70s.

27.01.2010 Thursday Train arrives on time 8:25 in Nong Khai. It is chilly outside (the first time I feel cold outdoors since I come to Thailand.) My friends recommend to hurry, so I can get to the Thai Embassy before midday to get a tourist visa. We take tuk-tuk to immigration (30THB for each of us three, I have only 20THB-notes, the driver charges me only 20THB and not 40). It takes few minutes, you can walk if you know the way (from train station to Thai immigration). Go through immigration. Take bus (15THB) over Thai-Lao friendship bridge (about 10min, too far for walking). At Lao immigration, only 30USD is quoted as fee, so I change money (1100THB to 30USD, quite expensive, but there was a queue at immigration, so I didn't want to cause any trouble by not having the fee in the requested currency). Does anyone know if you can pay in other currencies?

After handing in my passport, I have to wait about 1h until I get it back. Every ten minutes, a window opens and a few passports are handed back to people waiting. They show the page with the picture and call your name. If you are out of reach (there is a throng of people in front of the window), it is handed to you through the people waiting there. Alltogether a slow and unprofessional service. It's 11:15, so I am running out of time. I say goodbye to my English friends and share a taxi with Sam (an Australian who has been doing visa-runs to Vientiane for some years). There is no meter and the car is very old and makes some strange noises. 100THB for each of us to the Thai Embassy (more precisely to the Thai consulate in Rue Bourichane). We arrive there at 12:00 (the official closing time). He quickly gets passport photos (they are much cheaper there than those I brought from Germany) and photocopies of the passport (20THB for two pages) outside the embassy. Allegedly, the photocopy service in the embassy is closed. Later, at the Embassy, I find out that this is not true, photocopies there are 1kK per page. We fill in the visa application forms and are among the last people who can hand them in before the Embassy closes at 12:15. They take my passport and the photocopies, I'm suddenly left with no form of idenficiation (as I left my identity card and drivers licence in Bkk). We take taxi to town centre (100THB each) and share a room with two single beds (250THB each). We check in under his name, as I have no identification. (He is straight and not my type, therefore no homosexual activities in the room.) Shower, change clothes.

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Nice new embarkment on the shore of the Mekhong (on the very right), Don Chan Palace Hotel

I walk through Vientiane, finally find a free map (at Greendiscoverylaos office near Nam Phou fountain) and check in the internet where there are gay places. There is GQ bar near my hotel and Soradith further away. I go to GQ bar, open, no customers yet, but the waiters are clearly gay. I go to the Sauna between GQ bar and Wat Chan. Entry 15kK. This is a mixed sauna, very basic as you might surmise from the picture of the street that leads there. There are men and women in separate areas. About 5 Lao men in the sauna, about 5 sitting outside drinking tea. Not much space left. No gay activities. You get a piece of cloth which you wrap around your waist and a thin towel. I barely manage to dry myself with the towel after showering, better bring your own! Stayed there 18:30-19:00.

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This is the way that leads to the sauna (follow the arrow-shaped sign).

I call J on my phone with my Thai Sim-card. Even though some areas near the Mekong are within reach of the Thai network, my mobile is on roaming and my remaining balance (~150THB) is quickly used up. I can't even receive calls from him, as I as the receiver am charged as well. So I see my friend is calling, but can't take his calls! But I have enough balance left to send one SMS to tell him where I am and where we can meet at night. I go for dinner with Sam and friends he met there at Via via restaurant (Pizzeria in Rue Nokeokoummane). Good food, cheap, and you can watch how they prepare the pizza and you can see the oven (heated by buring wood). I can recommend that place! We later go to a place referred to as "rooftop bar" (I don't know the real name), where I meet my English friends. The service is quite slow and people smoke in there. J tries to call me, I cannot accept the call. I leave and ask a woman on the market to use her phone to call my friend on his Lao number. I can't reach him as he is busy. I want to give the woman 2kK, she reclines. I go to the Nam Phou fountain (a gay meeting place according to the internet and one of the places I suggested for meeting).

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Nam Phou Fountain

On the way, there are 3 ladies, one of them proposes to come to my room. This and the question of a tuk-tuk driver "Lady?" are the only signs of prostitution I found in Laos. I walk around the fountain and am chatted up by a gay boy X and his ladyboy friend. I use his phone to call J who is in GQ bar with a gay friend. We chat a bit and I leave to to meet J in GQ bar. It's too loud for talking inside, so we go outside where a friend (straight and shy) of him is waiting.

J suggests we go to his house because he claims to know what is my type (well, the straight boy is ok, and he is dresses in a way I like very much) and he has boy for me. I'm not sure where this will lead, but there is only one way to find out. But first we have to take J's gay friend home. A long trip to the north of Vientiane. On the way back, I count 40min from the place where where dropped the boy until we pass my hotel and another ten minutes from the hotel to J's house. On the way, he is more specific about his plans for the night, although I don't unterstand completely as he talks fast and giggles in a strange way. He talks about smoking, but neither cigaretts nor oral intercourse. He is bottom and sometimes has sex with straight boys and gives them things to smoke. The straight boy doesn't speak English, however he understands Thai. Encouraged by J, I practise some Thai and it works! We arrive a the house which is quite large and nicely decorated, however most rooms are in disorder, one looks even ravaged. He can't be bothered to clean up after smoking!

Now comes the sex and drug part you have been waiting for. We undress and lay down in the bed. J produces some reddish pills, which he and and the cute boy head with a lighter on a piece of aluminium foil and inhale the vapours through a bottle filled with green tea (or Sprite, I don't remember) . The whole process is odourless. J lights a candle and puts it on the bed on a shaky base (dangerous, if the candle falls down it will light the bedlinen). We all start masturbating, however the straight boy can't get hard. He has a wonderful body, no tattoos, skin soft and warm and a flat stomach, which shows abs when he tenses his muscles. The straight boy feels unwell and doesn't like to be touched, so he leaves the room. J wants me to fuck him with a condom with a hole. He knows I'm clean as I look healthy and he knows I always use a condom. So I am protected by the condom and he still can get my cum inside him. He does this with other boys without their knowledge, using condom he pierced before sex! However, he is not my type, so I can't get hard, despite J's best efforts with hand and mouth and despite promising me two boys, one of them a virgin, for the following day. The straight boy enters the room again to dress, the sight of him dressing is sufficient to get me hard, however J now doesn't feel like sex so I just masturbate on a plastic bag. J and the straight boy take some pills. If I remember correctly they were omega-3 fatty acids, vitamins, antibiotics and Velium (the label said Velium, not Valium). It's to fight the side-effects of the ice, and this medicine costs more than the ice. J drives the straight boy home and me to my hotel. He hasn't slept for 3 days, so he will take Valium and doesnt know when he will wake up tomorrow. We want to meet again the following evening. I go to bed at 3am. This is by far the strangest encounter I ever had. Incredible, what someone as innocent as me can get involved in!

Friday 28.01.2011 I get up and check out and leave my luggage in the hotel (1kK left baggage service). I do some sightseeing by foot: Wat Ho Phakeo, Wat Sisaket, Patouxay and That Louang.

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A wat in Vientiane.

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Patouxay Monument

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View from Patouxay, this seems to be the spot with the most traffic in entire Laos.

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Pha That Luang (A natinoal symbol, but I found it not very impressive, partially due to the fact that it's on the side of a hill, not on top)

You can visit all these places by foot, but it involves some walking (I spend about five hours walking). The fruit sellers there sell what I think is sugar cane (zylinders about 2cm diameter and 2cm high, which give a sweet juce when you chew on them and leave an inedible residue), I never saw these in Thailand. I buy a Lao Simcard (15kK, including 10kK balance). I should have done this right when I arrived! I try to call J, he doesn't pick up. Means I can't stay at his place and have to look for accommodation. At 21pm, all guesthouses I check are full, but hotels have rooms left, the cheapest I can find a a triple bed room for 150kK. I check in. I go to the Nam Phu fountain where I meet X again. We chat. He knows Soradith disco and recommends to go there after 22:30. He takes me there by his motorbike. While we are driving, he suggests I kiss him, but I recline. He is not my type. We arrive at 23, X drives home. Entry 20kK. Music is very loud, I use my earplugs. I walk around alone and a boy beckons me to join his table. He saw me in GQ yesterday. After a short chat, I continue walking around and join a table with two cute boys. One of them is interested, we chat and touch (putting arms on each other's shoulder and around each other's waist to improve understanding). He asks me to buy two beer for him and his friends, which I do (40kK). At midnight, there are about 100 people in the disco, I estimate 80% male. There are some older farang chatting with Lao boys. We leave around 1am on his motorbike. At my hotel, he has to register (by law, guests are not allowed, but I have a triple bed room!). With better light in my hotel room, I am quite sure that the other boy was cuter but yet we proceed and both cum. He wants to go to another disco (Don Chan hotel) and asks me for 50kK, which I give him. He leaves at 1:40am and I go to bed.

Saturday 29.01.2011 I take the bus to VV (60kK). Flat land, houses on the side of the road most part of the trip. Arrive 18:00. Take room in guesthouse 160THB. I walk through town and book a rock-climbing day-trip for beginners 984THB for the next day. The town is full of white twens, usually in swimmwear. There is not much to see in the town. Neither on the internet nor in real life can I find any hints for gay life there. I go to bed early.

Sunday 30.01.2011 Pick up for the trip (an Australian who climbed before and me) and our guide. The rock-climbing is amazing! The guide gets up the rock like a spider and puts on the security line, and even I manage to get to the top on most occasions, however with directions where to put my hands and feet next and sometimes I have to rely on the safety line. Unfortunately, the climbing shoes I chose (all climbing gear was supplied) do not fit well and my toe-nails were due to cut (i.e. they were too long), so the best part was getting out of the shoes when back down.

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Me climbing on a rock in ~20m hight. The yellow polo-shirt I'm wearing is from Chatuchak market, it's by Lacoste. If it's not genuine, the cheated me for 199THB.

Back to hotel, there is nothing left to do in town so I decide to get a massage. There are a few massage parlours, the staff is mainly female, but out of the few boys one is reasonably cute so I decide to get a Lao Oil massage by him (50kK + 30kK tip). However, my weak prospects for a happy ending were shattered when I was led to a room with four mattresses, two of them occupied by Farang ladies getting massages by Lao ladies! It looked as if the Farang ladies wore their underwear under a towel covering part of the body, so I left my underwear on as well and covered part of my body with the towel supplied. Later we were alone in the room, but no activity apart from massage took place. In VV, I didn't find any place where locals meet, there are only bars for Farang, where you can sit or lie down (there ar plenty of bars where you lay on a bed and have your meal or drink) and watch TV ("Friends" and "Family guy", as friends told me), with sound and subtitles.

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This is how most tourist walk around in Vang Vieng: in swimmwear (here: returning tubes from tubing).

Monday 31.01.2011 Minibus to LP (100kK) leaves at 9:30 and arrives at 15:30. First half of the trip is flat land, then it becomes mountaineous. From the bus station I take tuk-tuk to town (15kK/person). Check in guesthouse (70kK double bed), walk through town until it gets dark. I book a one day hiking trip to hilltribes (1400THB as I am the only participant, cheaper per person in group). I call my friend T, we meet for dinner and then go to my room. He is not my type, but he has nice underwear. He lies down on my bed, I make the mistake to join. He starts touching me, we undress and he wants to fuck me. Even though I repeat several times that I don't want to be fucked, he puts on a condom, lubes his dick and my butt. A bottle of what must be Poppers remains untouched. He tries to fuck me, a battle of words ("Cannot" "Why not" "I'm horny" "let me try" "I can come fast") and hands (I keep one of my hands on my butt or on his dick to prevent him from penetreting me while he holds my other hand so I can't push him away) follows, finally he rips off the condom and cums on me. I barely escaped a rape! Nonetheless, we stay together the evening. We go to "Star Beer" on his motorbike (arrive 22pm), a open air bar/restaurant where Lao people sit and eat and drink. My friend says there are often gay people there. It's dark already, the Lao wear long trousers and jackets with long sleeves, I feel cold in T-shirt. It gets empty, so we continue to Daofaa, arrive 22:50. This is a disco, about 100 people inside, about 70% male. The tables are made of old drums, which resonate with the loud music so bottles move slowly to the rim.

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Inside Daofaa night club

Music is loud, I use my earplugs. I stay a while on the table with my friend and his friends, then walk around. There is another table with two cute boys, I join them and one is interested. So we put arms on each other's shoulder and around each other's hip while talking and he wants to come with me. The other cute boy takes us two on his motorbike to my guesthouse. I ask him to join (as my bed is large enough for 3), but he reclines. Guesthouse is closed, I have to ring, receptionist opens, my friend has to check in. We have fun and he stays overnight.

Tuesday 01.02.2011 I get up early, my friend leaves and I go to the hilltrecking trip. About 3 hours hiking through dry mountainous landscape.

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There are these funnel-like spider webs all along the way (they were in Vang Vieng outside town in the forst as well, but they are only in dry areas, not in wet areas). Quite scary, as I don't like spiders.

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Spider webs along the way.

We visit a Khmu and a Hmong village and watch Hmong blacksmiths making a knife (however, they get the steel from LP).

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There are plenty of children around, they play a game where they try to hit an object at a distance of ~5m by throwing a flip-flop at it, the flip-flop slides a few meters after hitting the soil and makes a lot of dust. Or it even jump off the soil several times, like a rotating flat stone on water. I saw children playing this in LP as well.

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Children trying to hit an object (red plastic on the ground) by trowing a flip-flop (flying in the photo)

There are these trees which lose their leaves during dry season, the natives burn the dry leaves on the soil to free mineral nutritants. This leaves these black traces on the soil.

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Trees without leaves during dry season.

I almost fell victim to a coin scam. When I was in VT, I saw old silver coins for sale. Due to the rise of the price of silver, they now have considerable value, and I thought the vendors know about the value and didn't ask for a price. Now again, on our way back through the Whisky village, there were coins which even had the mass and percentage imprinted: "Republique Francaise Piastre de commerce Indo-Chine Titre 0.900 Poids net 27g", so I asked, the price quoted was 50kK. On my way back to LP I calculate that amount of silver in one coin is worth 200kK. Greed takes over, I calculate how many coins I have to buy and sell to fund the trip to Laos or the entire holiday in Thailand. But before I start buying, I go to internet cafe and google this coin. There are some results that deal with counterfeit coins from China. So I check again carefully and indeed, there are coins with the date "1428", furthermore one side of the coin is in much better condition than the other and there are further inaccuracies so I refrain from buying. Update 07.02.2011: In Bkk near the Royal Palace I see old coins 1 USD, again with mass (in grains) and essay imprinted, but these seem to be conterfeit as well.

Do some sightdseeing as long as there is sunlight: Phousi Hill (entry 80THB) with Buddha's footprint and view over town and sunset over Mekhong.

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Phousi hill seen from Luang Prabang

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View over Nam Khan (a river that flows into the Mekhong at LP) and airport (at the left) from Phousi hill

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Sunset over the Mekhong from Phousi hill

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Night market in Luang Prabang. May I draw your attention to the way the crocodiles are arranged?

Next to my hotel (near Wat Manorom) is a mixed sauna/massage. Again very basic, entry is 10kK. I enter 20:00, it looks good! One other farang and 3 cute Lao boys. One of the boys is too beefy (but he removes sweat from his body with his hands in an erotic way), the other one has tattoos, but the third one is just fine, and he chats with me. He is there with a friend (the boy with tattoos). After some general chat and two changes between sauna (which is actually just a steam room) and relaxing area (free tea), where I sit next to him keeping sking contact with knee or shoulder, I ask him about girlfriend. He has no girlfriend (which can mean two things). When he asks me, I tell that I am gay. No reaction from his side. So I have to ask if he ever had girlfriend. He did some years ago. Later, I ask if he likes boys or girls, he is not sure! I ask about his plans for the night and invite him to join me for dinner. He and his friend go to the shower (there is no place for a third, so I have to wait) and come back fully dressed. I take shower and dress, and when I return they are gone. (Sorry to disappoint you, no seduction of a straight boy, I should have been more straightforward.) Leave sauna at 20:50.

I try to book a flight from LP to VT at my guesthouse. The price is 750kK, but they cannot confirm now, they have to make some calls. I leave a 50EUR and a 1000THB bill as deposit, they want my passport as well, but finally name and passport number are sufficient. I take a stroll to the night market (there is nothing else to do) and upon return they tell me that no places are left for the following days. I get my deposit back. This is a nice example how something very simple can become very complicated. With internet, it needs one page where date, time, price and number of remaining seats are displayed, so I can decide within seconds if and when to go. To convey the same information on the telephone, it takes a prolonged call and three persons are involved: I, the one who talks to me and the one on the other end of the line. (I had a similar experience in Samui when I wanted to book a train ticket: at the agency near my guesthouse a call took place about time, class and price, but eventually it turned out that I had to go to another place where they can print train tickets, and the lady there just turned her screen towards me and I saw at a glance everything I needed to make a decision.) Even worse: boards where only travel destinations are quoted, without times and prices. I don't plan anything for the following day and go to bed.

Wednesday 02.02.2011 I get up at 10am and ask at the reception for bus to VT. Only busses in the evening are available (I was sure I saw elsewhere that busses to VT leave every time of the day). I book bus to VT for 7pm (160kK) and a half-day trip to the Kouangxi waterfall. Check out before 11am, leave my luggage at the reception. The area around the waterfall is nice, plants are green and there is no dust. Everything looks nice, the water is green-blue and there are areas for swimming, however it's too cold for me.

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Natural basins with areas for swimming.

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Further up the waterfall.

I hike up to the top of the waterfall, the crossing directly on the edge, walking through the water knee-deep, only separated from an abyss of ~100m by a wooden fence.

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Directly on the brink of the waterfall, up to the calf in the water.

Down on the other side of the waterall (up and down each about 1h). Return to hotel and wait for pick-up for the bus. Leave to the bus station 18:30. The bus is fully booked, I think the chairs (several different styles) are from airplanes and the distance is like in an airplane. A few Laos are sitting on the steps or in the luggage compartment. A baby is crying somewhere in front of me, a man is retching somewhere behind me and my nose starts running, so I have to blow it regularly and hang my handkerchief in the air to dry (otherwise it gets wetter and wetter and I don't like the wet feeling on my thight). I have to put on closed shoes (instead of flip-flops) and wrap a towel around my arms to keep me warm. The bus stops every hour for toilet and smoking, the French girl on the window (I on the aisle seat) gets out to smoke on every stop, so no sleep the entire night. The seats are like in an airplane, but the distance between them is less than in an airplane!

Thursday 03.02.2011 Arrive in VT at 5:12. Not sure whether I should take a room to sleep or continue my trip. I meet an English couple who want to go back to Bkk, so I join them. Take tuk-tuk from the northern bus station to the central bus station. The first bus to Thailand is at 7:30 (?). I see the sunrise (I haven't seen a sunrise in years, I usually sleep at that time). But we can get a tuk-tuk earlier that takes us to the border, same price as bus (15kK each of five). I get cold, the Englishman lends me his jacket. We pass through Lao immigration and take minibus across the bridge to Thai immigration. I again miss the point where they change lanes (drive right-handed in Laos and left-handed in Thailand), it must be right at the Lao immigration and there must be a traffic sign "change lanes". I walk from Thai immigration to Nong Khai train station (~15min), my friends take tuk-tuk. We meet there again ~8am. The first train to Bkk is at 18:20, however there is a train to Nakhon Ratchasima at 13:03. We separate, I leave my luggage at the train station (10THB) and walk to Nong Khai (~1.5h).

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Mekhong river in Nong Khai with Laos right, Thailand left and Friendship bridge in the background.

Not much to see on the way (dusty road) or in the town. I find the bus station at 11am, they had a bus to Bkk at 8:40 and the next one is at 11:40 (takes 10h and costs 350THB). I take tuk-tuk back to train station, buy ticket (64THB) to Nakhon Ratchasima and read a book. The train leaves 45min late. The journey is through rural Thailand, it is dusty and yellow-brown outside, with some trees with red flowers, but few leaves.

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View out of the train on the way back to Bangkok

There are small fires where dry plants are burned along the railway (to a lesser extent, they were in Laos and Nong Khai as well) and the wind blows the dust and soot into the train the the ceiling fans keep it moving, so I can see flakes of soot on my book and on my white T-shirt! The train arrives in Nakhon Ratchasima at 20:40 (1h15min late), just in time so I can buy a ticket (165THB, 2nd class seat) and get on the next train (20:46) to Bkk. This is about 20% occupied, there are entire Thai families in the 3rd class sleeping in all possible position, on the floor as well. I cannot sleep in my seat because I need a rest for my head and the light is buring. Again I have to cover my arms to keep me warm. I read and doze a bit.

Friday 04.02.2011 Arrive in Bkk at 3:35 (10min late), take taxi to my room, go to bed at 4am. Total duration from LP to Bkk (door to door): 34h, cost: 160kK + 15kK + 64THB + 165THB + 60THB.

07.02.2011 update: A friend tells me that he picked up boys at the swimming pool in VT, in the changing and showering are where they are naked.
Another update: On the way from my room to Malaysia hotel (where I meet friends), I walk past internet cafes in Sri Bum Pen and I look who is inside as I usually do and I am quite sure I saw the boy who almost raped me in LP, but I think this is an illusion as he didn't tell me about plans to return to Bkk. Half an hour later, I go back to check again, I am sure it is him, but I don't go in to ask. Then finally, I am still sitting at the Malaysia with friends, he walks past us and stops for a chat: He is indeed back in Bkk for a few days for a business trip. I do not suffer from illusions!

General observations: There is a curfew at midnight, most hotels and bars close at 23:30 and there is little nightlife after 23pm apart from few late night venues. Night markets are diassembles at 10pm. The hotel receptionists sleep at the reception and let you in after ringing or knocking on the door. Internet in VT is 100K/min, in VV 200K/min, in LP 100K/min). Thai Bath and even USD and EUR are accepted, however the rate is not as good as at exchange booths (eg. booth 1THB = 258Kip, paying with THB is calculated 1THB = 250Kip) and change is usually in Kip. You can get pancake, sandwiches and baguettes from street food sellers. There are many shops which sell used books in VT, VV and LP. Both times I met Lao boys on appointment they were on time.

All photos and all opinions expressed are my own unless otherwise stated.

I am no native speaker of English, however I proofread this text (to set a positive example for others who don't). If you find a mistake, let me know.
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Gaybutton
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Re: Report from Laos

Post by Gaybutton »

Excellent report! Thank you very much for taking the time to post it for us.
Jun

Re: Report from Laos

Post by Jun »

Thanks for the report.
TheCornerBar

Re: Report from Laos

Post by TheCornerBar »

Very few mistakes for one who is not a native English speaker. Very well done, thank you.
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