Hill tribes of Mae Hong Son province

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readerc54

Hill tribes of Mae Hong Son province

Post by readerc54 »

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From South China Morning Post

It’s a chilly early morning in Thailand’s Mae Hong Son province and the forest-covered hills and mountains, now wrapped in misty cloud, seem relatively untouched for a country eager to develop. This area has long been home to hill tribes that live off the land, cultivate crops and preserve age-old customs as the world around them changes.

Our four-wheel-drive van ascends along narrow, winding, slippery and steep mud roads, with sharp drop-offs and no rail guards. Through the occasional clearing, valleys of emerald-green rice fields can be seen far below.

These hills are home to Thailand’s largest minority ethnic group, the Karen. Their distant origins are unknown, but they settled in Burma (now Myanmar) several centuries ago and later migrated to Thailand, where an estimated 400,000 to 500,000 live, mainly in remote, closely knit villages scattered along the Myanmar border.

Mae Hong Son has a raw natural beauty; towering mountains, spectacular waterfalls and virgin forests that are home to hornbills, drongos and rare barking deer. But it is also Thailand’s poorest province. Many Karen villagers struggle to be self-sufficient yet are trapped in cycles of rural poverty. Cut off and marginalised, many families live well below the global poverty line.

The majority of Karen make their living as farmers – growing mainly rice, but also soy­beans, onions, garlic and corn for animal feed – and the climate in northern Thailand can be extreme: too much or too little rain destroys yields, forcing young men to look for work in cities, as cheap labourers, and children to withdraw from schools. Only one in four manage to complete secondary education.

http://www.scmp.com/magazines/post-maga ... aren-tribe
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Re: Hill tribes of Mae Hong Son province

Post by pong »

At least some 100.000 Karyen/Shan/Thai yai (more close to what they themselves say) live in big cities, mostly Chiangmai and Bangkok-so much for their rural roots. Subdivided into white and red-shirt (red here has nothing whatsoever to do with the Taksin/PheuThai movement). Best adapted of the many hilltribes to everyday Thai live. Their own language also quite close to spoken Thai. A surprising lot of them are (part) Christian.
readerc54

Re: Hill tribes of Mae Hong Son province

Post by readerc54 »

If you read the entire article at link listed, you'll find that many of your issues are acknowledged in the story:

"The Karen are unique among Thailand’s major hill groups, which also include the Akha, Hmong, Lahu, Lisu, Mien and Palaung. Formerly animists and Buddhists, many con­verted to Christianity, which was intro­duced in Burma in the 1800s, mainly by American Baptist missionaries."

Regarding their roots, the word does not refer just to the place where they live or were born. Roots is also defined as the state of having or establishing an indigenous relationship with or a personal affinity for a particular culture, society, or environment.
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Undaunted
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Re: Hill tribes of Mae Hong Son province

Post by Undaunted »

I have long wanted to go there for its beauty...it also has a important place in the Golden Triangle.....Chiang Mai had many Shan/Akha guys working in the go go bars not far from the Lotus hotel....they were Fucking Hot :shock:
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Re: Hill tribes of Mae Hong Son province

Post by Dodger »

readerc54 wrote:
Roots is also defined as the state of having or establishing an indigenous relationship with or a personal affinity for a particular culture, society, or environment.
That being the case I guess my Roots are in Thailand...555

I edited 14 hours of film footage down to a 2 hour CD as a gift for family members back in 1999-2000 after taking two trips to the northern mountains of Chiang Rai to explore Indian hill tribe life, with one trip spanning 6 weeks. I was (and still am) ignorant of the fact that so many tribes and/or tribal members converted to Christianity as stated in the article because what I observed was more "animism" than any form of structured religion, although their lifestyles indicate that they to lean more towards Buddhism in the fact that they consider all living things to be connected by some sort of inner spiritual essence (soul) which is a common belief in both animism and Buddhism.

I believe (and could be flat wrong) that the hills tribe boys who wander off to places like Bangkok and Chiang Mai to find work in the sex trade only wear those crucifix and cross necklaces as a means of blending in and not necessarily as a symbol of their actual beliefs. As one would expect, their knowledge of life outside of the village is extremely limited. I think they view all "farang" as being Christians primarily because of the messages they received from visiting Christian missionaries over the centuries.

Frankly, if the Christian missionaries who have always been hell bent on pushing their beliefs (and their form of mythological fairy tails) on others and just take the cotton out of their ears and stick it in their mouths when visiting other cultures they may actually learn something. The Indian hill tribe people aren't starving for a "belief" they are starving for "food".

Anyway, that's my two cents.
readerc54

Re: Hill tribes of Mae Hong Son province

Post by readerc54 »

Dodger, I couldn't agree more about your opinion of missionaries pushing their beliefs on those of other faiths. There a shinning exception to this behavior in the form of Fr. Joe Maier who, in 1973, founded the Mercy Centre in Bangkok's Klong Toey slum. Although Catholic, he doesn't proselytize. He respects the Buddhist or other faith of the children he and his staff serve and encourages them to practice it.

An AIDS hospice, schools and orphanages are among the many outreach projects started by the organization that is widely supported by Thais and donors worldwide.

An article about a recent event at the Centre appeared earlier this month in the Bangkok Post tand was also appeared in the Centre's website.
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http://www.mercycentre.org/en/news
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Re: Hill tribes of Mae Hong Son province

Post by Undaunted »

reader: Nice read......however, you are speaking of Thais being helped...The hill tribe people have no status..and as such their plight is secondary...at least to the Thai government and Thai people.
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Re: Hill tribes of Mae Hong Son province

Post by Smiles »

Visiting Mae Hong Son and environs is one of the great Thailand excursions. It's a beautiful part of northern Thailand and I'd recommend it for anyone. The town itself is funky, oldish in a non-touristy way, and it has a temple-on-a-hill on top of which one can find excellent solitary views.
This waterfall is on the way to Mae Hong Son (if you are driving along the far eastern Burma border). Many Thailand waterfalls are rather unassuming much of the year, but this one's a beaut ... you can gauge the size of it by looking down at the bottom. That's me sitting there, not a rock fairy.

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This was taken up on the top of the mountain (which essentially is in the middle of the city) in early morning. We climbed this mountain with some hope that the view would be terrific and it did not let us down.
There is a little coffee shop at the summit built on stilts stretching out a bit over the abyss. We sat there for an hour watching the fog get eaten up by the rising sun.


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This is taken on the stairs side looking out over the town of Mae Hong Son. The green field on the top side of the town is the Mae Hong Son airport.

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View from the coffee house.

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This is what all Thais do when they reach the top of anything. My old man being the quintessential ham.

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A very old temple on a little lake in the middle of town.

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Needless to say, I only took the picture . . . I did not dare to step onto it. That old lumber looked VERY old, to be tried only by fools and/or 'not heavy' farangs. It was straight down.

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Cheers ... ( and just one more reason why I love living in Thailand )

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Re: Hill tribes of Mae Hong Son province

Post by Dodger »

Smiles...great pics!

Waterfalls and mountains do something to me and now I just have to see this place for myself.

I did a little research and see that there flights between BKK to MHS, as well as short flights between Chiang Mai and MHS on Kan Air. Do you have any recommendations/advice regarding travel? Also, did you consider crossing over into Myanmar when you were there?

Any advice appreciated.
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Re: Hill tribes of Mae Hong Son province

Post by Smiles »

Dodger wrote: ... Waterfalls and mountains do something to me and now I just have to see this place for myself.
I did a little research and see that there flights between BKK to MHS, as well as short flights between Chiang Mai and MHS on Kan Air. Do you have any recommendations/advice regarding travel? Also, did you consider crossing over into Myanmar when you were there?
Any advice appreciated.
Hi Dodger. You're right about air travel to Mae Hong Son being somewhat scarce: i.e. from Bangkok or Chiang Mai is just about it. Kan Air seems to be a quite nice airline which flies mainly between various cities in Isaan as well it's flights from Chiang Mai to BKK, Mae Hong Son, and Hua Hin. Good news though, there is also a flight on Kan Air from U Tapao (Pattaya) to Chiang Mai ... and then you could grab a flight on the same airline to Mai Hong Son.
Kan's fares are quite inexpensive. I've not flown it yet, but my friend (and sometimes poster) Bob has used to come down to Hua Hin for a visit ... with good reviews.

Regarding traveling to Burma from Mae Hong Son I think not. MHS city is a long way away from the border and the terrain is very severe. The largest immigration office is in Mae Sot which is a hundred miles or so south of MHS. There may be tiny Imm offices along the border between MHS Province but probably used only for Thais and Burmese trading foodstuff etc etc as well as the usual smuggling and Imm Police standing around not noticing (but with their hands out). Once inside Burma at that point and you're essentially in the middle of nowhere, in the mountains, in the jungle. Better to fly to Burma from Chiang Mai.
Cheers ... ( and just one more reason why I love living in Thailand )

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